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These screws are well made with a FLAT base, rather than a "bugle," so they do not draw the taper tip into the pedal arm and spread it, forming a flare and requiring a puller to remove the arm. With these flat screws, if your taper "bottoms out" and your pedal arm is still loose, either your taper has distorted or your pedal arm has enlarged. Sometimes, things may tighten up but shortly, your new screw becomes loose, spins away, and you end up (again) holding your pedal arm in your hand on a lonely road. It's usually not the fault of the screw. Resist the temptation to use a washer, flat or locking, you may cause more damage, scoring your pedal arm and/or jamming the taper onto the washer.Remember (or learn) a screw works because it is stretched. It is under tension, and its threads don't slip because inter-molecular forces create a bond. That is why starting friction is greater than sliding friction, and we are able to create proper tension by measuring torque on a clean, well lubricated, bolt. If a well made bolt (or screw) is properly tightened, and then loosens, either the bolt itself, has been stressed beyond its elastic limit (strectched) or one or more of the things being held together has distorted and released the proper tension. That's why its a good idea to periodically check ALL your fasteners! Necessary items suddenly falling off a bike does not make for a cheery ride!On a bike, disappearing screws are a sign that the parts being held together need to be replaced. Unless you've acquired an enemy or a poltergeist who carries an 8 mm hex wrench, you should seriously consider some diagnosis and timely replacement before long; and in the meantime, carry an 8 mm folding tool and a spare screw or two when you ride. However, if you're in a bind, or planning to upgrade your ride anyway, read on.A TEMPORARY fix is to file one or two mm off of your taper and then, run a NEW screw all the way into it without the pedal arm on. If the screw seats firmly on the shortened taper tip, the threaded taper hole is long enough to draw the taper further into the pedal arm and create a more snug fit - for awhile. If the screw does not seat, you'll need to shorten the screw (with a file, grinder, whatever, but be sure the tip is smooth) until it does. Either of these "fixes" will work (again, for awhile) but you need to address the "soft" aspect of either your taper, your pedal arm, or both. If your taper is at fault, it's probably best to just replace the whole bottom end with a sturdier unit that matches your pedal arms. Sometimes, bottom ends don't come with screws. No problemo, you're covered, because with your half a dozen quality screws, you can afford to lose, replace and/or mess up some and still carry a spare. And if your pedal arms need replacement, they also may not come with screws. Ditto on the no problemo bit.I think that about covers it.
